After the shuttering of Moncler Gamme Bleu and Gamme Rouge, Moncler needed to revamp their look. So it asked eight designers and labels to create new one-off collections and labeled them under the Genius label. The idea really is quite genius.

Moncler 1952

This collection had a very notable vintage inspiration from the chunky cords to Moncler's old school logo on a knit. There were the requisite puffers, most came with their signature sheen, while others were also reversible. 



RUNWAY: Moncler Genius Project FW18

Stockholm-based label Our Legacy offered a hybrid presentation style for its FW18 collection that highlighted a melancholy collection, rooted in grunge and underground youth movements but elevated with Scandinavian minimalism and a focus on supremely well made and sustainable designs.



RUNWAY: Our Legacy FW18

Texture and tailoring are front and center of Martin Grant's Fall/Winter 2018 collection, which a heavy focus on outerwear, from elegant Chesterfields to more dramatic pieces that utilize non-traditional fabrics.



RUNWAY: Martin Grant FW18

Hecho, which means fact in Spanish, brought a tropical vibe to its FW18 collection via vibrant colors and easy layers of vintage-inspired designs for dandies. The elegant tailoring was reminiscent of the 50s with touches of embroidery that celebrate South and Central American culture.



RUNWAY: Hecho FW18

Burberry's Spring/Summer 2018 collection is quite bittersweet. It was Christopher Bailey's final collection for the iconic British label so it was emotional in that way; he also  re-issued of some his most iconic pieces like that oversized shearling coat and brought back the Burberry plaid which he shied away from for so many years, this time with a new touch: rainbow colors. After 17 years at Burberry, Bailey has grown as a designer and an individual and during that time, he's gotten married to a man, something Bailey when he first started at Burberry would not have thought legally possible. In addition to the rainbow colors on the plaid, rainbows appeared on everything else from puffers to the Burberry name on tracksuits; the collection at times felt very celebratory. There was a lot of nostalgia within the collection and why wouldn't there be since this is Bailey's swansong? That being said, the other part of the bittersweet feeling of this collection highlighted that it truly is time for Bailey to go. Fashion has changed and this collection, while exuberant, felt off and possibly trying too hard to be like a certain Florentine label whose sales have skyrocketed since the appointment of its new creative director and in that aspect, it failed.



RUNWAY: Burberry SS18

Jonathan Anderson, who also heads up Loewe in addition to his namesake label, offered an off-beat take on military-inspired clothes for FW18. For the traditionalist, there were some great coats like the final look's duffle coat or a leather flight jacket while more fashion-y items like trompe-l'œil knits that played on officer uniforms added humor to the collection. It was one of Anderson's most commercial and wearable collections, which is far from a bad thing.



RUNWAY: JW Anderson FW18

In lieu of a runway show, Billy Reid showed his sophisticated and laid back Fall/Winter 2018 collection via a presentation that allowed viewers closer inspect of the elegant fabrics and the relaxed but still tailored proportions.



RUNWAY: Billy Reid FW18

Brazilian label Osklen showed their Fall/Winter 2018 collection during NYFW and the result offered a mix of slouchy layers and an emphasis on the tropics.



RUNWAY: Osklen FW18

Siki Im's latest collection showed many pieces from his various lines. For DEN IM (get it?) label is inspired by his time living in Oxford, England. So while the designer's technical and architectural aesthetic is still present, there are English influences seen throughout, especially noticeable in the knits. Elsewhere, high performance designs from his CROSS collection offered leather jackets and even a jumpsuit for one rides their hog.



RUNWAY: Siki Im FW18