As Marc Jacobs slowly edges closer to an IPO, changes are afoot at the New York-based label. Firstly, the lower price line is being folded into the main line. Now, the label's menswear designer Karl Aberg's job is to combine the quirky but ultra-cool Marc Jacobs line and create a duality between it and the sportier, more youthful Marc by Marc Jacobs line. For SS16, he succeeded in creating sporty designs and combining it with luxe materials to create deceptively casual but luxurious offerings, all with a flush of Asian-inspired detailing.
The men (and women) who can afford Brunello Cucinelli's designs spend plenty of time luxuriating in the best of everything, including sharp and luxe designs. The Italian designer continues to work to create a symbiotic collection that properly balances luxury and utility without compromise. Here, there were ultra lightweight fabrics, sharply tailored trousers, cool jackets and a litany of layering options like leather or suede vests.
Athleticism has invaded the wardrobes of men and women around the world and Bally harnesses that activity- and utility-minded way of dressing with a chic marriage of athleticism and dandyism. Rugged boots, stretchy pants, and sharp European tailoring all melded together to create a collection that's likely to appeal to a large number of men, while a great variation of shoes is sure to continue to drive Bally-aficionados to the cash registers.
Architectural designs from Balenciaga injected formality to the label which has been trending more sporty and athletic since Alexander Wang took over the reigns. There were structured jackets, slim and streamlined tailoring, as well as a myriad of very chic military-inspired coats, like an olive trench and a snakeskin bomber.
There's been a regime change at Carven and the differences between the new men's director and the former are noticeable. Graphic and arty patterns were spread out throughout the laid back collection, putting a new spin on the quirky and youthful aesthetic that Carven has etched out for itself. Elements of army surplus added a new dimension while a stronger focus on accessories showed the label's possible new strategy to break into new, and wider, markets.
Paul & Joe's latest collection was an ode to a summer's day, floral applique and butterfly motifs littered the sporty collection while dressier options were relaxed, offered a nice balance between the austere and fluid tailoring that's becoming a little divisive in menswear nowadays.
Utility and military go hand in hand and Alexander Wang put his spin on both with his SS16 collection. Drab hues of olive and beige added variety among the black-on-black designs that the Chinese American designer so often proffers. Patches were sewn onto jackets and shirts that resembled Morse code, like one might have seen come through the cables during WWII while a few cool bags rounded out the collection.
Denim's dominance in men's wardrobes is not going to end any time soon so Lucien Pellat Finet doubles down with a denim-heavy collection that proffers graphic tees with jorts and ripped denim, all while juxtaposing the carefree vibe with morose motifs of skulls and bones.
Paris' gay pride parade was a day before Hood by Air's Spring/Summer 2016 show but the bold and eclectic designers by Shayne Oliver would've fit in quite well with a pride parade. There was gender bending designs, lots of subversive and sexually charged designs, like tiered designs that would've slipped off had they been unzipped or high-slit trousers, all of which was worn by a sexually fluid cast that Oliver has trumpeted since his debut.